Trincomalee Marine Life: What You Will Actually See

Trincomalee gives you two things in the same week. Inside, Pigeon Island is a shallow fringing reef you can snorkel from the beach, with blacktip reef sharks working the reef flat in water shallow enough to stand in. Outside, one of the deepest natural harbours in the world sits beside a submarine canyon, which puts blue whales and sperm whales within reach of a morning boat.

The reef is straightforward Indo-Pacific and easy to read. Powder blue surgeonfish shoal over the reef top, bluestripe snapper hold station in dense yellow crowds over the coral heads, and giant moray, titan triggerfish and oriental sweetlips work the slope and the overhangs. Green and hawksbill turtles are regular over the seagrass and the reef.

Pigeon Island is a seabird sanctuary as well as a reef, and the black-naped terns roosting on the islet itself are part of the reason it is protected. The reef flat is also where the pressure shows: this is a small area taking a lot of people, and the shallow coral is fragile in a way that is not obvious from the surface.

Highlights

Blacktip Reef Shark

Blacktip Reef Shark

The neat little reef shark of the shallows, its black-tipped fins often cutting the surface over sun-lit sand flats. Where: The shallow inner reef at Pigeon Island, in snorkelling depth. Best: May to September.

Hawksbill Turtle

Hawksbill Turtle

The reef's sponge specialist, its beautiful shell also the reason it was hunted to the edge. Where: Reef at Pigeon Island and off Nilaveli. Best: May to September.

Reef Manta Ray

Reef Manta Ray

A four metre wingspan gliding overhead in slow, hypnotic loops that leave divers grinning for days. Where: Deeper reef edges and cleaning stations. Best: May to September.

Blue Whale

Blue Whale

The largest animal that has ever lived, and off Sri Lanka a population that mostly does not migrate, which is why it can be seen almost year round. Where: Deep water off the east coast. Best: May-Sep.

Small Giant Clam

Small Giant Clam

The electric blue and green lips are not pigment for show. They are farming light, and the clam gets most of its food from algae living in its own flesh. Where: Reef flat at Pigeon Island, in snorkelling depth. Best: May to September.

Mammals

3 species

Spinner Dolphin

Spinner Dolphin Common

Stenella longirostris

A small, slender dolphin that leaps clear of the sea and spins like a top in mid-air.

Where: Offshore on the run out to the whale grounds. Best: May to September.

Blue Whale

Blue Whale Occasional Endangered

Balaenoptera musculus

The largest animal that has ever lived, and off Sri Lanka a population that mostly does not migrate, which is why it can be seen almost year round.

Where: Deep water off the east coast. Best: May-Sep. The mirror season to Mirissa, and far fewer boats.

Sperm Whale

Sperm Whale Occasional Vulnerable

Physeter macrocephalus

The deepest diving mammal on earth, hunting squid two kilometres down, and occasionally gathering off Sri Lanka in pods of hundreds.

Where: Deep water off the east coast. Best: May-Sep. The best chance in Sri Lankan water, and the reason the east coast season is worth the journey.

Birds

2 species

Black-naped Tern

Black-naped Tern Regular

Sterna sumatrana

Almost pure white apart from a narrow black band across the back of the head, like a headphone cable.

Where: Roosting on Pigeon Island itself, which is a seabird sanctuary as well as a reef. Best: May to September. The island is named for the rock pigeons that breed on it.

Bridled Tern

Bridled Tern Occasional

Onychoprion anaethetus

Spends most of the year entirely at sea, feeding on fish driven to the surface by tuna hunting below.

Where: Offshore water and the islet itself. Best: May to September.

Reptiles

4 species

Green Sea Turtle

Green Sea Turtle Regular

Chelonia mydas

The great grazing turtle of the tropics, the only sea turtle that turns vegetarian as an adult.

Where: Shallow reef and seagrass at Pigeon Island and Nilaveli. Best: May to September.

Hawksbill Turtle

Hawksbill Turtle Regular Critically Endangered

Eretmochelys imbricata

The reef's sponge specialist, its beautiful shell also the reason it was hunted to the edge.

Where: Reef at Pigeon Island and off Nilaveli. Best: May to September. The single best place in Sri Lanka to see one.

Beaked Sea Snake

Beaked Sea Snake Rare

Hydrophis schistosus

Drop for drop, one of the most venomous snakes in the sea, and it is responsible for most sea snake bites in Asia.

Where: Shallow coastal water and harbour approaches. Best: May to September.

Loggerhead Turtle

Loggerhead Turtle Rare Vulnerable

Caretta caretta

Jaws powerful enough to crush a queen conch, and it navigates ocean basins by reading the earth's magnetic field.

Where: Coastal water and reef edges, usually juveniles. Best: May to September.

Fish

11 species

Bluestripe Snapper

Bluestripe Snapper Common

Lutjanus kasmira

A bright yellow snapper ruled with electric-blue lines, massing in dense, glowing schools around coral heads and wrecks.

Where: Dense yellow shoals holding station over coral heads. Best: May to September.

Powder Blue Surgeonfish

Powder Blue Surgeonfish Common

Acanthurus leucosternon

A stunning Andaman signature fish, powder blue with a yellow sail and a scalpel-sharp blade at the base of its tail.

Where: Shoaling over the reef top at Pigeon Island. Best: May to September. They graze in loose shoals that pour over the coral like a blue tide.

Black Pyramid Butterflyfish

Black Pyramid Butterflyfish Regular

Hemitaurichthys zoster

They gather in the current in hundreds, and the white wedge on each flank turns the whole shoal into a drifting cloud of triangles.

Where: The drop-off edges off Pigeon Island and the Trincomalee canyon rim. Best: May to September.

Common Lionfish

Common Lionfish Regular

Pterois volitans

A flamboyant reef hunter fanned out in maroon and white plumes, every graceful spine tipped with venom.

Where: Hanging under ledges on the reef. Best: May to September. The Indian Ocean species, Pterois miles.

Giant Moray

Giant Moray Regular

Gymnothorax javanicus

The largest moray on the reef, its gaping, fanged mouth a fearsome look that is really just how it breathes.

Where: Holes and overhangs on the reef at Pigeon Island. Best: May to September.

Indian Sailfin Tang

Indian Sailfin Tang Regular

Zebrasoma desjardinii

It raises a dorsal fin nearly as tall as its own body, and a startled one seems to double in size in front of you.

Where: Reef top and boulder slopes at Pigeon Island. Best: May to September.

Maldives Anemonefish

Maldives Anemonefish Regular

Amphiprion nigripes

A clownfish found only in Sri Lanka, the Maldives and the Lakshadweep, and nowhere else on earth.

Where: Anemones on the inner reef at Pigeon Island and off Nilaveli. Best: May to September.

Oriental Sweetlips

Oriental Sweetlips Regular

Plectorhinchus vittatus

A handsome striped reef fish whose fussy juveniles wobble around in polka dots to mimic toxic flatworms.

Where: Under overhangs on the reef by day. Best: May to September.

Sebae Anemonefish

Sebae Anemonefish Regular

Amphiprion sebae

The big dark anemonefish of the northern Indian Ocean, with a yellow tail that gives it away from a distance.

Where: Sand and rubble margins off Nilaveli and Pigeon Island. Best: May to September.

Titan Triggerfish

Titan Triggerfish Regular

Balistoides viridescens

The reef's bad tempered bulldozer, a big triggerfish that will charge divers who stray over its nest.

Where: Reef flat and slope, nesting in the sand patches. Best: May to September. Nesting fish will charge. Swim away horizontally, not up.

Yellowhead Butterflyfish

Yellowhead Butterflyfish Regular

Chaetodon xanthocephalus

An Indian Ocean butterflyfish that pairs for life, and you almost never see one without the other close by.

Where: Sheltered coral at Pigeon Island and Nilaveli. Best: May to September.

Sharks and rays

3 species

Blacktip Reef Shark

Blacktip Reef Shark Common Vulnerable

Carcharhinus melanopterus

The neat little reef shark of the shallows, its black-tipped fins often cutting the surface over sun-lit sand flats.

Where: The shallow inner reef at Pigeon Island, in snorkelling depth. Best: May to September. The single most reliable place in Sri Lanka to see a shark, and you do not need to dive. Dozens patrol water barely over head height.

Reef Manta Ray

Reef Manta Ray Rare Vulnerable

Mobula alfredi

A four metre wingspan gliding overhead in slow, hypnotic loops that leave divers grinning for days.

Where: Deeper reef edges and cleaning stations. Best: May to September.

Whale Shark

Whale Shark Rare Endangered

Rhincodon typus

The biggest fish in the ocean, a spotted, bus sized filter feeder and the undisputed holy grail of tropical diving.

Where: Blue water beyond the reef. Best: May to September.

Molluscs

1 species

Small Giant Clam

Small Giant Clam Regular

Tridacna maxima

The electric blue and green lips are not pigment for show. They are farming light, and the clam gets most of its food from algae living in its own flesh.

Where: Reef flat at Pigeon Island, in snorkelling depth. Best: May to September. Close enough to snorkel over, and the mantle closes on contact.

Corals and anemones

1 species

Staghorn Coral

Staghorn Coral Common

Acropora species

The fast-growing branching coral that builds the living thickets of the reef, nursery and shelter for a whole community.

Where: The shallow reef flat inside the island. Best: May to September. Badly hit by bleaching in 2016 and recovering unevenly, and it breaks under a fin or a foot.

Echinoderms

2 species

Blue Sea Star

Blue Sea Star Common

Linckia laevigata

An almost unreal cobalt blue starfish scattered across the shallows, able to regrow a whole body from a single lost arm.

Where: Reef flat and rubble in snorkelling depth. Best: May to September.

Feather Star (Crinoid)

Feather Star (Crinoid) Regular

Comatulida species

A living bouquet of feathery arms that clings to high points on the reef by day and can crawl, or even swim, to a better spot.

Where: Clinging to sea fans and reef edges in the current. Best: May to September.

Other invertebrates

1 species

Christmas Tree Worm

Christmas Tree Worm Common

Spirobranchus giganteus

Pairs of tiny spiral trees in every colour, studding the coral and vanishing in a flash when a shadow passes.

Where: Embedded in boulder corals on the reef flat. Best: May to September. Wave a hand and the whole colony vanishes at once.

Planning

May to September is the east coast window, the mirror image of the south. Go to the reef early: the boats concentrate through the middle of the day and the water is both calmer and emptier in the first hour. The reef flat at Pigeon Island is shallow enough that fins and a float are worth more than they sound, because standing on it is the single biggest source of damage. The blacktips come into very shallow water on the flat and move off it easily.

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Frequently asked questions

Can you snorkel with sharks at Pigeon Island?

Yes. Blacktip reef sharks use the shallow inner reef and are common there in snorkelling depth. They are unbothered by people and should be watched from a distance rather than followed.

When is the best time to visit Trincomalee?

May to September, when the southwest monsoon leaves the east coast calm. This is the opposite window to Mirissa and the south, which is what makes the two coasts complementary across a year.

Can you see blue whales at Trincomalee?

Yes, in the east coast season. The submarine canyon off the harbour brings deep water close inshore, and blue and sperm whales are both recorded offshore here.

What is the reef like at Pigeon Island?

A shallow Indo-Pacific fringing reef, snorkellable from the beach, with staghorn coral on the flat, powder blue surgeonfish, bluestripe snapper, giant moray and turtles. It is small and heavily visited, so treat it gently.

Image credits

Square thumbnails are cropped from the original. Wide banner images are cropped to a band. Other images are resized only. No other changes have been made.

Square thumbnails are cropped from the original. Wide banner images are cropped to a band. Other images are resized only. No other changes have been made.