Bangkok Wildlife: What You Will Actually See

Asian water monitor walking across the grass past pedal boats in Lumphini Park, Bangkok

Bangkok wildlife sounds like a contradiction until you walk into Lumphini Park and find a two-metre monitor lizard hauled out on the grass, ten minutes from a skytrain station. The city is built on a delta, and the water never really left: klongs run behind the shophouses, the Chao Phraya carries stingrays and featherbacks, and Bang Krachao, the loop of jungle inside the river bend, is close enough to cycle to.

The real prize is south of the city. Two hours down the coast, the saltpans and mudflats at Pak Thale and Laem Phak Bia hold the spoon-billed sandpiper, of which a few hundred remain anywhere on earth, and Nordmann’s greenshank alongside it. Birders fly to Bangkok for that stretch of mud. This page lists every animal the city and its day trips record, with the site, the season and an honest assessment of your chances.

Highlights

Asian Water Monitor in Thailand

Asian Water Monitor

A dragon sized lizard that swims canals and city parks, second only to the Komodo dragon in length. Where: Lumphini Park, the Benjakitti wetland and any klong bank in the city. Best: Year round, mid-morning when they haul out to bask.

Spoon-billed Sandpiper

Spoon-billed Sandpiper

One of the world's rarest and most charismatic shorebirds, tiny and armed with an unmistakable spatula bill. Where: The saltpans and mudflats at Pak Thale and Laem Phak Bia. Best: Nov-Mar, on a rising tide as the flats shrink.

Lyle's Flying Fox in Thailand

Lyle's Flying Fox

A large fruit bat that gathers in noisy thousands over temple grounds, hanging like dark fruit in the daytime trees. Where: Temple colonies of the central plain, most famously Wat Pho Bang Khla in Chachoengsao. Best: Year round, best at the dusk flyout.

Synchronous Firefly

Synchronous Firefly

Mangrove trees hung with thousands of fireflies, all flashing in perfect unison like living fairy lights. Where: Riverside mangroves along the Mae Klong at Amphawa. Best: May-Oct, after dark on a moonless night.

Giant Mudskipper, brown, torpedo-shaped, bulging periscope eyes on top of the head, tall first dorsal fin, pale lateral stripe

Giant Mudskipper

A fish that spends most of its life out of water, defending a mud territory with a raised sail of a dorsal fin. Where: Mudflats at Bang Pu and along the Khok Kham shoreline. Best: Year round, low tide.

Mammals

5 species

Greater Short-nosed Fruit Bat, small fruit bat, big eyes, pale-edged ears, short muzzle, dog-like face.

Greater Short-nosed Fruit Bat Common

Cynopterus sphinx

A small fruit bat that builds itself a shelter by chewing palm and fig leaves into a cosy roosting tent.

Where: Flowering and fruiting trees in Lumphini, Benjakitti and Bang Krachao. Best: Year round, the first hour after dark.

Lyle's flying fox hanging in a daytime roost

Lyle's Flying Fox Regular Vulnerable

Pteropus lylei

A large fruit bat that gathers in noisy thousands over temple grounds, hanging like dark fruit in the daytime trees.

Where: Temple colonies of the central plain, most famously Wat Pho Bang Khla in Chachoengsao. Best: Year round, best at the dusk flyout. A protected temple colony, roosting in the open in daylight. The evening departure is the thing to stay for.

Long-tailed Macaque, grey-brown, very long tail, backswept crown crest, pale cheek whiskers.

Long-tailed Macaque Occasional Endangered

Macaca fascicularis

The bold, water-loving monkey of temples and mangroves, and despite its ubiquity now one of the most heavily exploited primates on Earth.

Where: Riverside temple grounds on the city fringe and the wooded edges of Bang Krachao. Best: Year round, day. Never feed them. Bangkok's troops are far bolder than forest animals.

Indo-Pacific Humpback Dolphin, pale grey to pink dolphin with a low fin on a thickened dorsal ridge.

Indo-Pacific Humpback Dolphin Rare Vulnerable

Sousa chinensis

Born dark grey and turning pink with age, the colour coming from blood vessels under unpigmented skin.

Where: Shallow upper Gulf water off Bang Pu and the Mahachai river mouth. Best: Nov-Apr, calm mornings. Pink adults in muddy brown water. Choose operators that keep their distance and cut the engine.

Fishing Cat, stocky grey brown cat, dark spots and stripes, short tail.

Fishing Cat Very rare Vulnerable

Prionailurus viverrinus

A wild cat that dives for fish, with partially webbed toes and a genuine love of swimming.

Where: Reedbeds, shrimp ponds and abandoned saltpans around Khok Kham and the Petchaburi coast. Best: Nov-Feb, night. The inner Gulf wetlands are one of its last strongholds. Camera-trap country rather than a sighting you can plan.

Birds

23 species

Asian Koel, large cuckoo, male glossy black, female brown-spotted, red eyes.

Asian Koel Common

Eudynamys scolopaceus

A glossy black cuckoo with blood-red eyes whose rising ko-el call is one of the defining sounds of tropical mornings.

Where: Parks and leafy streets across the city. Best: Mar-Jul, from first light. Famous for the loud rising ko-el call, and far more often heard than seen.

Asian Openbill, greyish-white stork, dark flight feathers, gap in the closed bill, photographed in Cambodia.

Asian Openbill Common

Anastomus oscitans

A stork with a permanent gap in its bill, a purpose-built tool for prising snails from their shells.

Where: Rice fields and marshes anywhere on the drive out to the coast. Best: Year round, day. Now abundant in the central plains. Huge soaring flocks and noisy colonial nests.

Coppersmith Barbet, small green barbet, crimson forehead and throat, yellow face patches.

Coppersmith Barbet Common

Psilopogon haemacephalus

A tiny green barbet with a red-and-yellow face whose metronomic tuk tuk tuk call rings like a coppersmith at work.

Where: Bare treetops in Lumphini, Chatuchak and Rot Fai parks. Best: Year round, day. The metronomic tuk call is the background sound of a Bangkok park.

Olive-backed Sunbird, small, olive back, yellow belly, male with metallic blue-black throat.

Olive-backed Sunbird Common

Cinnyris jugularis

The cheerful garden sunbird of Thailand, the male flashing an iridescent blue-black throat as he sings from a wire.

Where: Gardens, hotel balconies and every park in the city. Best: Year round, day. The garden sunbird of Thailand, and it will nest on a balcony.

White-breasted Waterhen, slate above, white face and breast, rufous vent, long greenish legs

White-breasted Waterhen Common

Amaurornis phoenicurus

A bold, clean-cut marsh bird in slate and white that trots along ditch edges flicking a rusty-bottomed tail.

Where: Ditches and park ponds throughout the city. Best: Year round, day. The bold rail of the city; noisy through the rains.

White-throated Kingfisher, brown head, turquoise back, white throat and breast, large red bill

White-throated Kingfisher Common

Halcyon smyrnensis

A big turquoise-and-chocolate kingfisher that hunts far from water, taking lizards and insects across open country.

Where: Wires, park edges and canal banks across the city. Best: Year round, day. Often far from water. Loud laughing call and white wing flashes.

Blue-tailed Bee-eater, slim green bee-eater, chestnut throat, blue tail with long central streamers.

Blue-tailed Bee-eater Regular

Merops philippinus

A streamlined jewel of green, chestnut and blue that hawks bees and dragonflies in graceful, swooping sallies.

Where: Open ground and canal banks at Bang Krachao and on the coastal drive. Best: Nov-Apr, day.

Brahminy Kite, white head and breast, chestnut body and wings, rounded tail, photographed in Phang Nga.

Brahminy Kite Regular

Haliastur indus

A handsome chestnut-and-white kite of coasts and harbours, forever quartering the shoreline for scraps and stranded fish.

Where: Over the river, the port and the coastal ponds at Bang Pu. Best: Year round, day.

Common Kingfisher, tiny, electric blue upperparts, orange underparts, long black bill.

Common Kingfisher Regular

Alcedo atthis

A dazzling blue dart along the stream, small enough to sit in a palm yet impossible to miss when it flies.

Where: Klongs, park lakes and the Bang Krachao channels. Best: Nov-Mar, morning. A flash of electric blue along almost any city waterway in winter.

Great Knot, stocky grey-brown wader with a longish slightly drooping bill, dense black spotting on the breast in summer.

Great Knot Regular Endangered

Calidris tenuirostris

Flies from Siberia to Australia with a single refuelling stop, and losing that one mudflat has nearly finished the species.

Where: Mudflats at Pak Thale, Laem Phak Bia and Bang Pu. Best: Nov-Mar, falling tide. Scan the flocks carefully. This is where the two rarities hide.

Indian Roller, stocky, lilac-brown at rest, bright turquoise and dark-blue wing bands in flight.

Indian Roller Regular

Coracias benghalensis

A dull-looking perched bird that explodes into brilliant bands of blue when it flies, tumbling through spectacular courtship rolls.

Where: Wires and posts over open ground on the drive to the coast. Best: Nov-Apr, day. Dull brown at rest and electric blue the instant it flies.

Lesser Whistling Duck, small chestnut-brown duck, grey face, dark cap, whistling call, tree-perching.

Lesser Whistling Duck Regular

Dendrocygna javanica

A warm-brown, long-necked duck that whistles rather than quacks and wheels over the marshes in twittering flocks.

Where: Benjakitti, Bang Krachao ponds and flooded fields on the coastal drive. Best: Year round, dawn and dusk.

Little Tern, very small tern with a yellow black-tipped bill, white forehead, black cap

Little Tern Regular

Sternula albifrons

Hovers on fast flickering wings like an oversized hummingbird before dropping onto a fish.

Where: Saltpans and river mouths at Khok Kham, Bang Pu and Laem Phak Bia. Best: Year round, breeding Mar-Jun.

Black-capped Kingfisher, black cap, white collar and throat, purple-blue back, large red bill.

Black-capped Kingfisher Occasional

Halcyon pileata

A striking mangrove kingfisher in black, white and deep purple-blue, a winter visitor to Thailand's coasts.

Where: Mangrove edges at Bang Pu and along the inner Gulf. Best: Nov-Mar. A non-breeding visitor, and Bang Pu is the easiest place to find one.

Far Eastern Curlew, very large buff-brown wader with an extremely long downcurved bill, no white rump in flight.

Far Eastern Curlew Occasional Endangered

Numenius madagascariensis

The longest bill of any wader in the world, curved like a sickle and used to reach crabs deep in the mud.

Where: Open mudflats at Pak Thale and Khok Kham. Best: Nov-Mar, falling tide. Check for the very long bill and no white rump.

Lesser Adjutant, very tall stork, bare yellowish head, heavy pale bill, dark back, white belly.

Lesser Adjutant Occasional Vulnerable

Leptoptilos javanicus

A towering, bare-headed stork that stalks the wetlands with a soldier's stiff gait, part hunter and part undertaker.

Where: Shrimp ponds and mangrove edges along the inner Gulf coast. Best: Nov-Mar.

Oriental Darter, slender dark waterbird, long kinked neck, dagger bill, silver wing streaks.

Oriental Darter Occasional Near Threatened

Anhinga melanogaster

The snakebird, swimming with only its slim neck above water before it spears a fish on a dagger bill.

Where: Benjakitti lake, Bang Krachao ponds and the larger central wetlands. Best: Year round, day. Swims low with only the neck showing, then perches with wings spread to dry.

Purple Heron, slim heron, chestnut-and-slate plumage, long striped neck, dagger bill.

Purple Heron Occasional

Ardea purpurea

A slender, snake-necked heron in rich chestnut and slate that melts into the reeds it hunts among.

Where: Reedbeds at Bang Pu and the Khok Kham pond margins. Best: Nov-Feb, dawn. Skulks in the reeds rather than standing in the open.

Stork-billed Kingfisher, large kingfisher, huge red bill, buff head and underparts, blue back

Stork-billed Kingfisher Occasional

Pelargopsis capensis

A hefty waterside kingfisher with a huge blood-red bill and a loud, ringing laugh.

Where: The Chao Phraya, the larger klongs and the Bang Krachao waterways. Best: Year round, morning. The huge red bill is unmistakable.

Chinese Egret, white egret with dark legs and yellow-green feet in winter; yellow bill, blue face and shaggy crest when breeding.

Chinese Egret Rare Vulnerable

Egretta eulophotes

Hunts by sprinting across the mudflat with wings half open, a running dash that no other egret uses.

Where: Shrimp ponds and tidal flats around Khok Kham and Pak Thale. Best: Nov-Mar. Watch the feeding action. The open-winged run is the giveaway.

Nordmann's Greenshank, stocky wader, greenish-yellow legs, stout two-toned bill, pale grey in winter.

Nordmann's Greenshank Rare Endangered

Tringa guttifer

One of the world's rarest waders, a stocky greenshank that winters on Thai mudflats among thousands of commoner shorebirds.

Where: Tidal mudflats at Pak Thale and Laem Phak Bia. Best: Nov-Mar, falling tide. One of the rarest waders in the world, on the same flats as the spoon-billed sandpiper.

Spoon-billed sandpiper on a tidal flat

Spoon-billed Sandpiper Rare Critically Endangered

Calidris pygmaea

One of the world's rarest and most charismatic shorebirds, tiny and armed with an unmistakable spatula bill.

Where: The saltpans and mudflats at Pak Thale and Laem Phak Bia. Best: Nov-Mar, on a rising tide as the flats shrink. Pak Thale is arguably the best place on earth to see one, and there are only a few hundred left in the world. Scan the small waders methodically; the bill only shows head-on.

Milky Stork, white stork, black flight feathers, long yellow down-curved bill, bare face.

Milky Stork Very rare Endangered

Mycteria cinerea

A rare, ghostly white stork of the mangroves, its bare face flushing from yellow to red in the breeding season.

Where: Coastal mangroves and abandoned ponds of the upper Gulf. Best: Nov-Mar. Separate it carefully from painted stork, which is common on the same ground.

Reptiles

25 species

Asian water monitor raising its head beside water

Asian Water Monitor Common

Varanus salvator

A dragon sized lizard that swims canals and city parks, second only to the Komodo dragon in length.

Where: Lumphini Park, the Benjakitti wetland and any klong bank in the city. Best: Year round, mid-morning when they haul out to bask. Lumphini is the easiest big-reptile watching on earth: metre-plus monitors on the lawns, ten minutes from a skytrain station.

Common House Gecko, small pale translucent gecko, granular skin, expanded toe pads, chirping call, on walls near lights.

Common House Gecko Common

Hemidactylus frenatus

Sticks to glass using van der Waals forces across billions of microscopic hairs, not glue and not suction.

Where: Every lit wall in the city. Best: Year round, after dark. The chirping is territorial.

Common Sun Skink, glossy coppery-brown, keeled scales, orange wash on flanks, short limbs, photographed in Vietnam.

Common Sun Skink Common

Eutropis multifasciata

A glossy bronze skink that basks on logs and forest paths and gives birth to live young.

Where: Leaf litter and sunny path edges at Bang Krachao and Rot Fai park. Best: Year round, day.

Oriental Garden Lizard, tan to grey with a low nape crest, breeding males with red-orange head.

Oriental Garden Lizard Common

Calotes versicolor

The everyday garden lizard whose breeding males flush blood red about the head, earning the name bloodsucker.

Where: Park hedges, temple grounds and roadside scrub. Best: Year round, day. Breeding males flush bright red about the head.

Tokay gecko on a tree trunk, blue with orange spots

Tokay Gecko Common

Gekko gecko

A big, boldly spotted gecko whose loud TOH-kay call echoes through Thai nights and, by legend, brings luck if it calls seven times.

Where: Temple walls, shophouses and older buildings across the city. Best: Year round, after dark. Heard far more than seen. The call is the loudest thing in a Bangkok night.

Oriental Rat Snake, long and slim, olive-brown, large round eyes, dark bars near the tail.

Oriental Rat Snake Regular

Ptyas mucosa

A long, fast, wide eyed snake that races across open ground and is one of the region's great rodent controllers.

Where: Paddies, park edges and open ground across the city fringe. Best: Year round, day. Fast, harmless and usually seen crossing open ground.

Puff-faced Water Snake, stout banded brown and cream water snake, swollen snout, nostrils and eyes set high on the head.

Puff-faced Water Snake Regular

Homalopsis buccata

Harvested from Tonle Sap and Thai wetlands by the million each year, which may make it the most heavily exploited snake on earth.

Where: Klongs, ponds and flooded ground across the central plain. Best: Year round, night. Harmless, and common in any lowland canal after dark.

Asiatic Softshell Turtle, flat leathery olive-grey shell with no scutes, long neck, tubular snorkel-like snout.

Asiatic Softshell Turtle Occasional Vulnerable

Amyda cartilaginea

Buries itself in riverbed mud with only a snorkel-like nose showing, and strikes at anything that passes.

Where: The Chao Phraya, the larger klongs and temple ponds. Best: Year round, day. Only the snout shows. Look for a small periscope in still water.

Black Marsh Turtle, almost entirely black turtle with pale head blotches and a thick neck.

Black Marsh Turtle Occasional Endangered

Siebenrockiella crassicollis

Two pale patches above the eyes give it a permanently startled expression, which is why Thais call it the smiling terrapin.

Where: Muddy ponds and canals at Bang Krachao and the city parks. Best: Year round, day. Also seen at temple ponds, but those are released animals rather than wild ones.

Copperhead Racer, copper-brown snake, four black lines on the forebody, three black bars radiating from the eye.

Copperhead Racer Occasional

Coelognathus radiatus

Rears into a vertical S and inflates its neck into a striped shield when cornered, all bluff and no venom.

Where: Farmland and canal banks on the outskirts. Best: Year round, day. All bluff. The vertical S and flared neck are a display, not a threat.

Dog-faced Water Snake, stout grey-brown snake with dark blotches, blunt head, eyes on top of the head

Dog-faced Water Snake Occasional

Cerberus schneiderii

Sidewinds across bare mudflats at low tide, one of very few snakes anywhere that moves that way.

Where: Mudflats and creek edges at Bang Pu and Khok Kham. Best: Year round, night on a falling tide. Watch for the sidewinding gait across open mud.

Eastern Russell's Viper, stout brown snake with three rows of dark oval blotches ringed in white, triangular head

Eastern Russell's Viper Occasional

Daboia siamensis

Responsible for more serious snakebite in Asia than almost any other species, and it hisses louder than any snake in the region.

Where: Dry farmland and scrub of the central plain. Best: Nov-Apr, dusk. Commonest in the central plain, which is exactly here. Watch your feet on paddy bunds at dusk.

Golden Tree Snake, yellow-green with black cross-hatched pattern, slim body, large eyes.

Golden Tree Snake Occasional

Chrysopelea ornata

A fast, elegant climber that can also glide, and one of the most common snakes seen in Thai gardens and temples.

Where: Walls, roofs and garden trees throughout the city. Best: Year round, day. Often the first snake a visitor sees, racing up a wall in full sun.

Indochinese Spitting Cobra, grey to black cobra with pale blotches, hoods up and can spray venom.

Indochinese Spitting Cobra Occasional Vulnerable

Naja siamensis

Sprays venom at the eyes from up to three metres, aiming with enough accuracy to hit a moving face.

Where: Farmland and village edges on the outskirts. Best: Year round, dusk. If sprayed, flush the eyes with clean fluid for fifteen minutes and get to hospital.

Large-eyed Pit Viper, bright green pit viper with very large eyes, vertical pupils, heat pit, often a pale lateral stripe in males.

Large-eyed Pit Viper Occasional

Trimeresurus macrops

Vivid green with enormous copper eyes, and it hunts entirely by heat, so darkness makes no difference to it.

Where: Low vegetation beside water in Lumphini and Bang Krachao. Best: May-Oct, night. Green and easily missed at head height. Bangkok's city parks really do hold pit vipers.

Malayan Box Turtle, high-domed dark shell, hinged plastron, three yellow stripes on the head.

Malayan Box Turtle Occasional Endangered

Cuora amboinensis

A domed marsh turtle that seals itself completely inside a hinged shell like a living box.

Where: Marshes, ponds and flooded ground of the central plain. Best: May-Oct, after rain.

Malayan Snail-eating Turtle, small dark brown keeled shell, dark head with bold white or cream stripes, broad crushing jaws.

Malayan Snail-eating Turtle Occasional Near Threatened

Malayemys macrocephala

Eats almost nothing but snails, crushing them with broad flat jaw surfaces, and wears white racing stripes on its face.

Where: Paddies, canals and marshes on the outskirts. Best: Year round, day. Wild animals are hard to separate from temple releases. Be careful with claims.

Monocled Cobra, broad hood with single round eyespot, uniform brown to black body.

Monocled Cobra Occasional

Naja kaouthia

The classic hooded cobra of the rice fields, marked with a single O shaped eyespot on its spread hood.

Where: Paddies, canal banks and rough ground on the city fringe. Best: Year round, dusk. The cobra most often met near people in the central plain.

Reticulated python coiled, showing its net pattern

Reticulated Python Occasional

Malayopython reticulatus

The longest snake in the world, a jewelled, net patterned constrictor that turns up from rainforest to city canals.

Where: Klongs, drains and park margins across the city. Best: Year round, night. Bangkok holds a genuine urban python population. Most are found by the fire brigade rather than by naturalists.

Beaked Sea Snake, grey-green sea snake with a hooked downturned snout, flattened paddle tail, pale belly

Beaked Sea Snake Rare

Hydrophis schistosus

Drop for drop, one of the most venomous snakes in the sea, and it is responsible for most sea snake bites in Asia.

Where: Turbid coastal water off Bang Pu and the river mouths. Best: Year round. Almost all bites happen to fishermen sorting nets. Swimmers are not at risk.

Little File Snake, baggy loose grey and white banded skin, rough granular scales, tiny eyes on top of the head

Little File Snake Rare

Acrochordus granulatus

Loose baggy skin covered in rasping granular scales, used to grip slippery fish that no smooth snake could hold.

Where: Turbid estuary water at the Mahachai and Bang Pakong river mouths. Best: Year round, night. Harmless, and almost never seen out of water.

Malayan Krait (Blue Krait), slim, glossy black and white bands, rounded head barely wider than neck

Malayan Krait (Blue Krait) Rare

Bungarus candidus

A quiet killer in crisp black and white bands, with venom many times stronger than a cobra's.

Where: Damp lowland ground and farmland edges outside the city. Best: May-Oct, night. Placid, easily overlooked and seriously venomous.

Red-tailed Pipe Snake, cylindrical glossy blue-black snake with orange-red banding and a bright red underside to a blunt tail

Red-tailed Pipe Snake Rare

Cylindrophis ruffus

When threatened it hides its head and raises its blunt tail instead, flashing bright red underneath as a decoy.

Where: Damp lowland ground and paddy bunds on the city fringe. Best: May-Oct, night. Harmless. If it raises its tail, that is the false head display.

Sunbeam Snake, smooth dark brown snake whose polished scales throw an oil-slick rainbow sheen in sunlight

Sunbeam Snake Rare

Xenopeltis unicolor

Looks plain brown until light hits it, when the scales split the light into a full oil-slick rainbow.

Where: Damp soil in gardens, parks and paddies after rain. Best: May-Oct, night. The iridescence needs direct light. Worth a torch beam from the side.

Saltwater Crocodile, close view of the armoured head and long tooth-lined jaws of the largest living reptile

Saltwater Crocodile Ultra rare

Crocodylus porosus

The largest living reptile and the ocean going giant of crocodiles, now virtually gone from Thai waters.

Where: Historically the Chao Phraya delta and the inner Gulf mangroves. Best: Not seeable. Effectively gone from the wild in Thailand. Included as an honest record of what the delta has lost, not as something to look for.

Amphibians

7 species

Asian Common Toad, squat warty body, dark bony head ridges, dark-tipped warts, hops low.

Asian Common Toad Common

Duttaphrynus melanostictus

The ubiquitous warty toad of doorsteps and gardens, hoovering up insects under every night light.

Where: Under every street light and in every park in the city. Best: Year round, night. Abundant wherever there are lights and damp ground.

Banded Bullfrog, plump rounded body, dark brown with copper side stripes, short limbs.

Banded Bullfrog (Chubby Frog) Common

Kaloula pulchra

A round, rubbery frog that inflates like a balloon when threatened and bellows like a cow after rain.

Where: Gardens, drains and park edges after downpours. Best: May-Oct, night. Emerges in numbers after the first heavy rain. The lowing call fills wet nights.

Common Tree Frog, slender tan body, sometimes four faint dark stripes, blunt snout, large toe pads, photographed in Ranong.

Common Tree Frog (Four-lined Tree Frog) Common

Polypedates leucomystax

The tan tree frog of porch lights and bathrooms, which whips up foam nests that hang above the water.

Where: Gardens, walls and park vegetation across the city. Best: May-Oct, night. Look for foam nests on leaves above standing water.

East Asian Bullfrog, large, olive-green, prominent skin ridges along the back, powerful legs.

East Asian Bullfrog Common

Hoplobatrachus rugulosus

The big ridge backed frog of the rice paddies, whose deep quacking chorus is the sound of a Thai wet season.

Where: Paddies and ponds on the city fringe. Best: May-Oct, night. Its deep quacking chorus is the signature sound of a wet central plain night.

Rice Paddy Frog, small warty frog, highly variable grey to olive-brown, often with a pale line down the spine.

Rice Paddy Frog Common

Fejervarya limnocharis

The single most abundant frog in Thailand, and its numbers are now used as a live monitor for pesticide contamination.

Where: Paddies, ditches and puddles throughout. Best: May-Oct, night.

Dark-sided Chorus Frog, very small frog, dark flanks sharply separated from a pale back, fine cream line down the spine with dark spots.

Dark-sided Chorus Frog Regular

Microhyla heymonsi

A pale hairline stripe runs the full length of its back, and a pair of dark spots on it mimic eyes at the wrong end.

Where: Shallow standing water in paddies and park puddles. Best: May-Oct, night.

Ornate Narrow-mouthed Frog, tiny narrow-snouted frog with a dark symmetrical arrowhead pattern on the back.

Ornate Narrow-mouthed Frog Regular

Microhyla fissipes

Smaller than a thumbnail, and after rain a paddy full of them produces a rasping chorus you can hear a kilometre away.

Where: Ditches, gardens and park lawns after rain. Best: May-Oct, night.

Fish

11 species

Striped Snakehead, olive-brown, faint dark chevrons on the flanks, blunt scaly head, long unbroken dorsal fin.

Striped Snakehead Common

Channa striata

The fish that walks: it breathes air, crosses wet ground on its fins, and turns up in puddles miles from any river.

Where: Klongs, paddies and marshes throughout. Best: Year round, dusk. Surface gulps in a still canal at dusk are almost always this fish.

Tinfoil Barb, deep silver body, red-orange fins, black stripe along each tail lobe.

Tinfoil Barb Common

Barbonymus schwanenfeldii

A shoal of these turning together is a sheet of mirror, which is exactly how they got the name.

Where: Temple ponds and the Chao Phraya, especially at riverside wats. Best: Year round, day. Temple fish sanctuaries give the closest and most reliable views in the country.

Walking Catfish, long grey-brown body, flattened head, four pairs of barbels, very long dorsal fin.

Walking Catfish Common

Clarias batrachus

On wet nights whole fields of these wriggle overland between pools, snaking along on their pectoral spines.

Where: Canals, drains and flooded ground across the city. Best: May-Oct, wet nights. The overland walk happens after dark following rain.

Giant Mudskipper, brown, torpedo-shaped, bulging periscope eyes on top of the head, tall first dorsal fin, pale lateral stripe, photographed in Vietnam.

Giant Mudskipper Regular

Periophthalmodon schlosseri

A fish that spends most of its life out of water, defending a mud territory with a raised sail of a dorsal fin.

Where: Mudflats at Bang Pu and along the Khok Kham shoreline. Best: Year round, low tide. Low tide is essential. The Bang Pu boardwalk puts you within a few metres.

Banded Archerfish, silver, deep-bodied, four to six black wedge-shaped bars, flat-topped head, upturned mouth.

Banded Archerfish Occasional

Toxotes jaculatrix

It shoots insects off overhanging leaves with a jet of water, correcting for refraction as it aims.

Where: Mangrove creeks and estuary channels at Bang Pu and the Mahachai river mouth. Best: Year round, day. Sit quietly by an overhanging branch and wait for the shot.

Barramundi, silver deep-bodied fish with a sloping forehead, large mouth and pale pink eye

Barramundi Occasional

Lates calcarifer

Every barramundi starts life as a male and turns female at around four years old.

Where: Estuaries and mangrove creeks of the upper Gulf. Best: Year round. Hunts hardest where current meets structure.

Climbing Perch, olive-grey, rough scales, spiny gill covers, dark spot at the tail base.

Climbing Perch Occasional

Anabas testudineus

A fish that walks out of the water and hauls itself overland on its gill covers, sometimes for hours.

Where: Paddies, roadside ditches and marshes on the outskirts. Best: May-Oct, after rain.

Clown Featherback, knife-shaped silver body, humped back, long undulating anal fin, black ocelli near the tail

Clown Featherback Occasional

Chitala ornata

A knife-shaped fish with a row of black eyespots down its flank that swims backwards as easily as forwards.

Where: The Chao Phraya and the larger klongs. Best: Year round, night. Best seen at night with a torch from a bankside or a boat.

Giant Snakehead, long cylindrical body, snake-like head, dark blue-grey back; juveniles bright orange with black stripes.

Giant Snakehead Occasional

Channa micropeltes

A metre-long ambush predator that guards its young in a red cloud of fry, and will charge anything that comes near them.

Where: Large canals and reservoirs on the city fringe. Best: Year round, morning. Watch for a dense orange cloud of fry at the surface with two adults beneath.

Mangrove Jack, coppery red-brown, pointed snout, prominent canine teeth

Mangrove Jack Occasional

Lutjanus argentimaculatus

Spends its youth in mangrove roots, then swims offshore to spend adulthood on a reef, a fish with two entirely separate lives.

Where: Mangrove roots and snags in the inner Gulf creeks. Best: Year round. Juveniles in the roots, adults out on the reef. Two different fish to find.

Siamese fighting fish among green aquatic plants

Siamese Fighting Fish Rare Vulnerable

Betta splendens

Thailand's national aquatic animal is a wild rice-paddy fish, and the wild one looks nothing like the trailing-finned pet.

Where: Shallow paddies, ditches and marshes of the central plain around Ayutthaya and the city fringe. Best: May-Oct, day. Wild fish are drab and short-finned, not the pet-shop version. Look in shallow warm water with heavy plant cover.

Sharks and rays

1 species

Giant Freshwater Stingray, huge oval brown disc, long whip tail with a very large serrated spine, tiny eyes

Giant Freshwater Stingray Very rare Endangered

Urogymnus polylepis

The largest freshwater fish on earth by some measures, a two metre disc carrying a 38 cm barb.

Where: Deep channels of the Maeklong river. Best: Year round. Handled only by research teams. The Maeklong die-off in 2016 was a major setback for the species.

Insects

17 species

Antlion, conical pits 2-5 cm across in fine dry sand under shelter; adult a drab damselfly-like insect with clubbed antennae.

Antlion Common

Myrmeleon sp.

The larva digs a conical pit in dry sand and flicks grains at anything trying to climb out, collapsing the walls under it.

Where: Dry sand under temple eaves and building overhangs. Best: Year round, day. The pits are everywhere once you start looking. Drop a grain of sand into one.

Blue Carpenter Bee, large bee covered in powder-blue fuzz, loud low buzz.

Blue Carpenter Bee Common

Xylocopa caerulea

A big, fuzzy, powder-blue bee that drones loudly between flowers like a flying pom-pom.

Where: Large flowers in parks and gardens. Best: Year round, day. A loud, powder-blue bee at large flowers, and harmless.

Common Mormon, black swallowtail with a band of white spots; some females also show red crescents and a white patch.

Common Mormon Common

Papilio polytes

Females come in three different forms, two of which impersonate butterflies that are poisonous to eat.

Where: Gardens, parks and roadside scrub. Best: Year round, day. Compare the female forms with the rose swallowtails they mimic.

Common Parasol Dragonfly, small dragonfly, red male with brown-tinted wings, perches openly.

Common Parasol Dragonfly Common

Neurothemis fluctuans

A little red dragonfly with tinted wings, perched like a weather vane on every pond-side twig.

Where: Park ponds, klongs and paddies throughout. Best: Year round, day. Perches openly on twigs by still water; the red male is easy to watch.

Common Rose Swallowtail, black swallowtail, red body, rose-pink hindwing spots, white patch.

Common Rose Swallowtail Common

Pachliopta aristolochiae

A velvety black swallowtail with a crimson body and rose-pink spots, floating slowly to show it is poisonous.

Where: Gardens and park flower beds throughout. Best: Year round, day. Flies slowly and openly, advertising that it is toxic.

Giant Cicada, very large cicada, long clear wings, mottled green-brown body

Giant Cicada Common

Pomponia imperatoria

A huge cicada whose piercing, ringing call is the loudest sound in the midday forest.

Where: Large park trees at Lumphini, Chatuchak and Bang Krachao. Best: May-Oct, midday. Heard far more than seen, and the loudest voice of a Bangkok afternoon.

Leopard Lacewing, orange butterfly, lacy black-and-white margins, filigree underside.

Leopard Lacewing Common

Cethosia cyane

A fiery orange butterfly edged in intricate black and white lace, common along sunlit trails.

Where: Scrub and park edges across the city. Best: Year round, day.

Weaver Ant, slender rust-orange ant, leaf nests bound with white silk.

Weaver Ant Common

Oecophylla smaragdina

A rust-red ant that sews living leaves into nests using its own larvae as glue guns.

Where: Mango and other garden trees across the city. Best: Year round, day. Look for leaf nests bound with white silk. The larvae are a local delicacy.

Giant Honey Bee, large honey bee, single open comb hung high on a branch or cliff.

Giant Honey Bee Regular

Apis dorsata

A big, fierce wild bee that hangs single-comb nests the size of a door from high branches and cliffs.

Where: Tall trees and tower blocks; combs hang from ledges and branches. Best: Year round, day. Single huge open combs, sometimes on buildings. Keep well clear.

Giant Water Bug, large flat oval brown bug, powerful hooked front legs, short pointed beak.

Giant Water Bug Regular

Lethocerus indicus

Big enough to kill a frog or a small snake, and its bite is rated among the most painful an insect can inflict.

Where: Paddies and ponds on the outskirts, and at lights near water. Best: May-Oct, night. Sold live in every market. A painful bite if handled.

Fireflies flashing in dark riverside trees

Synchronous Firefly Regular

Pteroptyx malaccae

Mangrove trees hung with thousands of fireflies, all flashing in perfect unison like living fairy lights.

Where: Riverside mangroves along the Mae Klong at Amphawa. Best: May-Oct, after dark on a moonless night. Take a quiet boat trip and whole trees pulse in unison. Avoid bright lights and never let a boat touch the trees.

Common Birdwing, large black butterfly, golden hindwing patches, sailing flight.

Common Birdwing Occasional

Troides helena

A hand-sized black and gold butterfly that cruises the canopy like a small bird.

Where: Flowering trees in the larger parks and at Bang Krachao. Best: Year round, day.

Giant Asian Mantis, large green praying mantis with folded raptorial forelegs and a triangular swivelling head

Giant Asian Mantis Occasional

Hierodula membranacea

A big green ambush hunter that turns its head to watch you, forelegs folded as if in prayer.

Where: Garden shrubs and park vegetation, and at lights. Best: May-Oct, night. Turns its head to watch you, which almost nothing else does.

Mango Longhorn Beetle, large grey-brown beetle with two pink-red thoracic spots, very long antennae

Mango Longhorn Beetle Occasional

Batocera rufomaculata

Antennae twice the length of its body, and it squeaks audibly when picked up by grinding its thorax.

Where: Garden and orchard trees, and at lights. Best: May-Oct, after dark. Squeaks loudly if picked up.

Oleander Hawkmoth, streamlined moth marbled in olive-green, pink and white, swept-back wings, hovering flight.

Oleander Hawkmoth Occasional

Daphnis nerii

Camouflaged like military fatigues and fast enough to cross the Mediterranean, it hovers at flowers like a hummingbird.

Where: Lit walls and night-scented flowers in the suburbs. Best: May-Oct, dusk.

Rhinoceros Beetle, large glossy brown-black beetle, males with a forked head horn

Rhinoceros Beetle Occasional

Xylotrupes gideon

A glossy tank of a beetle, the male armed with a forked horn for wrestling rivals.

Where: Lights and sap runs on the leafy fringe. Best: May-Oct, after dark.

Atlas moth with wings spread, showing the cobra-head wingtips

Atlas Moth Rare

Attacus atlas

One of the largest moths on Earth, its wingtips shaped and coloured like a cobra's head.

Where: Lit walls at Bang Krachao and the leafier outskirts. Best: May-Oct, after warm wet nights. Adults live only days and never feed.

Spiders and scorpions

4 species

Golden Orb-weaver, very large spider, black body with yellow marks, huge golden web.

Golden Orb-weaver Common

Nephila pilipes

A giant black-and-yellow spider spinning webs of golden silk strong enough to snare small birds.

Where: Path edges at Bang Krachao and Rot Fai park. Best: May-Oct, day. Large females hang in shimmering golden webs. Harmless.

Heavy Jumping Spider, stocky furry grey-brown spider with two very large forward-facing eyes, moves in short hops.

Heavy Jumping Spider Common

Hyllus diardi

Judges distance with a telephoto lens in each main eye, then jumps up to six times its own body length onto prey.

Where: Sunlit leaves and walls in parks and gardens. Best: Year round, day. Diurnal and curious. It will turn and look at your camera.

St Andrew's Cross Spider, silver, yellow and black banded spider sitting head-down in the centre of an orb web with a white silk cross.

St Andrew's Cross Spider Common

Argiope versicolor

Weaves a bold white X into the middle of its web, and nobody has settled whether it attracts prey, warns birds or does both.

Where: Park scrub and garden hedges throughout. Best: May-Oct, day. The white silk cross in the web is the giveaway.

Asian Forest Scorpion, large glossy black scorpion, heavy pincers, fluoresces under UV.

Asian Forest Scorpion Occasional

Heterometrus laoticus

A big, glossy black scorpion that glows an eerie blue-green under ultraviolet light.

Where: Under logs and leaf litter at Bang Krachao. Best: May-Oct, night. Glows blue-green under a UV torch. The sting is mild.

Crustaceans

2 species

Fiddler Crab, small crab, one greatly enlarged claw in males, mottled blue, purple and cream carapace.

Fiddler Crab Common

Austruca annulipes

The male's oversized claw is useless for feeding, so he has to do everything with the small one while waving the big one at females.

Where: Mudflats at Bang Pu, Khok Kham and the Mahachai shoreline. Best: Year round, falling tide. Sit still for five minutes and the whole flat emerges and starts waving.

Giant Mud Crab, heavy green-brown crab, polygonal patterning on the claws, flattened paddle-shaped rear legs

Giant Mud Crab Occasional

Scylla serrata

The claws can generate enough force to crush a large clam, and will take a finger off without much trouble.

Where: Mangrove creeks and root systems of the inner Gulf. Best: Year round, night. In burrows among the roots. Powerful claws, so no hand-catching.

Other invertebrates

1 species

Indo-Pacific Horseshoe Crab, domed horseshoe-shaped shell, long rigid tail spine, ten legs beneath, ploughing shallow sand.

Indo-Pacific Horseshoe Crab Rare Endangered

Tachypleus gigas

Not a crab at all, closer to a spider, and its blue blood is used worldwide to test every injectable drug for contamination.

Where: Quiet muddy shores of the inner Gulf around Bang Pu and Khok Kham. Best: Year round, high tide at night. Completely harmless. Right an upended animal by the shell, never the tail.

Planning and responsible watching

Nov-Feb does two jobs at once here, which is unusual: it is the cool dry season and it is the wader season, so the most comfortable months to be in the city are also the only months the inner Gulf rarities are present. If you are coming for the spoon-billed sandpiper, come between November and March, go with a guide who knows which pans are holding birds that week, and time it for a rising tide when the flats shrink and the waders concentrate. May-Oct is hot and wet, much better for snakes, frogs and insects, and it is when the Amphawa fireflies peak on moonless nights. Inside the city, Lumphini and Benjakitti are best in the first two hours after opening, before the heat and the crowds; Bang Krachao rewards a bicycle and a whole morning. Bang Pu is an hour out and gives mudskippers, fiddler crabs and wintering kingfishers from a boardwalk, with dolphins offshore on a calm day. A note on temple ponds: the turtles and fish in them are released animals, not wild ones, and it is worth knowing the difference before counting them.

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Frequently asked questions

What wildlife can you see in Bangkok?

Asian water monitors in Lumphini and Benjakitti parks, reticulated pythons in the klongs, Lyle’s flying foxes at temple colonies, mudskippers and fiddler crabs on the Bang Pu mudflats, and, two hours south at Pak Thale and Laem Phak Bia, some of the rarest shorebirds in the world including the spoon-billed sandpiper.

Where can you see the spoon-billed sandpiper near Bangkok?

Pak Thale and Laem Phak Bia on the inner Gulf, about two hours south of the city. It is arguably the best site on earth for the species and only a few hundred birds remain anywhere. They are present Nov-Mar. Go with a guide who knows which saltpans are holding birds that week, and aim for a rising tide.

Are there really monitor lizards in Lumphini Park?

Yes, and a lot of them. Asian water monitors over two metres long live in and around the lake and haul out to bask through the middle of the morning. They are wild, they are not dangerous if left alone, and they are the easiest big-reptile watching anywhere in the world.

When is the best time for wildlife in Bangkok?

Nov-Feb, which is both the cool dry season and the shorebird season on the inner Gulf. May-Oct is hot and wet and considerably better for frogs, snakes and insects, and it is the peak of the Amphawa firefly season.

Where can you see fireflies near Bangkok?

Amphawa, about ninety minutes southwest, where synchronous fireflies gather in riverside mangroves along the Mae Klong and whole trees pulse in unison. Go on a moonless night between May and October, take a quiet boat, and choose an operator that keeps lights off and never lets the boat touch the trees.

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