Kanneliya Wildlife: What You Will Actually See

Kanneliya is the second great lowland rainforest of the wet zone and it gets a fraction of the visitors Sinharaja does. That is the whole argument for coming: the same forest type, the same endemics, the same waterfalls, and trails you will often have to yourself.

It also holds animals that are barely findable anywhere else. Nagao’s pug-snout frog was described from this forest and breeds in water-filled holes in old trees. The Sri Lanka tree crab does the same thing, a freshwater crab that spends its life in a tree, which is about as unlikely as an animal gets. And the Sri Lanka relict ant, one of the rarest insects on earth, has one of its few known populations in this leaf litter.

For most visitors the day is birds, butterflies and frogs. Orange-billed babblers work the trails in noisy parties, the blue magpie comes through with the feeding flock, purple-faced langurs are regular in the canopy, and the streams carry cherry barb, black ruby barb and the ornate paradisefish. The butterfly list includes the Ceylon rose and the tree nymph, which drifts through canopy gaps like paper.

Highlights

Nagao's Pug-snout Frog

Its entire life cycle happens in a few hundred millilitres of rainwater trapped in a rotting trunk. Where: Water held in rotting tree holes in the old growth forest. Best: Year round, night.

Sri Lanka Tree Crab

Sri Lanka Tree Crab

A freshwater crab that lives up a tree, in rainwater trapped in a hollow trunk, and only comes down to breed. Where: Rot holes and hollows in mature trees along the stream trails. Best: February and March.

Sri Lanka Relict Ant

Sri Lanka Relict Ant

The only surviving species of an entire subfamily of ants, and it lives in the leaf litter of one island. Where: Forest floor litter in the least disturbed sections. Best: Year round.

Golden Shrub Frog

Golden Shrub Frog

Genuinely gold in torchlight, which in a genus of browns and greys is the whole point. Where: Foliage inside closed canopy forest, well beyond the trail head. Best: Year round, night.

Ceylon Rose

Ceylon Rose

Critically Endangered, endemic, and confined to the shrinking rainforest of one corner of the island. Where: Forest trails and clearings inside the reserve. Best: January to March.

Mammals

1 species

Purple-faced Langur

Purple-faced Langur Regular Endangered

Semnopithecus vetulus

A shaggy black leaf monkey with white side whiskers, and the highland form is so hairy it is known as the bear monkey.

Where: High canopy, usually heard before seen. Best: Year round.

Birds

2 species

Orange-billed Babbler

Orange-billed Babbler Regular

Argya rufescens

The engine of the Sinharaja feeding flock: hear this bird and everything else is about to arrive.

Where: Moving through the understorey in noisy flocks. Best: Year round.

Sri Lanka Blue Magpie

Sri Lanka Blue Magpie Occasional Vulnerable

Urocissa ornata

Cobalt and chestnut with a blood-red bill, and it comes to look at you rather than the other way round.

Where: Mid canopy in the wetter forest. Best: Year round.

Reptiles

5 species

Common Lanka Skink

Common Lanka Skink Common

Lankascincus fallax

The little bronze skink that shoots out from under every leaf you turn at Sinharaja belongs to a genus found nowhere but this island.

Where: Leaf litter along the trails. Best: Year round.

Kangaroo Lizard

Kangaroo Lizard Common

Otocryptis wiegmanni

An endemic lizard that runs away on its back legs like a tiny dinosaur, then freezes halfway up a sapling and dares you to find it again.

Where: Shaded leaf litter near streams. Best: Year round.

Hump-nosed Lizard

Hump-nosed Lizard Occasional Vulnerable

Lyriocephalus scutatus

The only member of its genus anywhere on earth, with a bulbous knob on its nose and a bony lyre across its skull, and it is slow enough to photograph properly.

Where: Understorey twigs and low branches. Best: January to April and July to September.

Sri Lankan Green Pit Viper

Sri Lankan Green Pit Viper Occasional

Trimeresurus trigonocephalus

An endemic green viper that hangs at eye level in the rainforest at night, and the one snake most visiting naturalists actually come away with.

Where: Low branches on the forest trails at night. Best: Year round, night.

Rough-horned Lizard

Rough-horned Lizard Rare Endangered

Ceratophora aspera

A horned lizard the length of a finger, living in the leaf litter of the lowland rainforest and shaped exactly like a dead leaf.

Where: Leaf litter on the lowland rainforest floor. Best: January to April.

Amphibians

5 species

Kelaart's Dwarf Toad

Kelaart's Dwarf Toad Regular Vulnerable

Adenomus kelaartii

An endemic toad in an endemic genus that is active by day, which makes it the one you can find on an afternoon walk rather than a night one.

Where: Stream margins and boulders. Best: Year round.

Sri Lanka Rock Frog

Sri Lanka Rock Frog Regular Vulnerable

Nannophrys ceylonensis

Its tadpoles do not swim. They crawl about on wet rock beside the torrent, grazing in a film of water a few millimetres deep, and the male guards the eggs.

Where: Wet rock beside the forest waterfalls. Best: Year round, night.

Golden Shrub Frog

Golden Shrub Frog Rare Endangered

Pseudophilautus auratus

Genuinely gold in torchlight, which in a genus of browns and greys is the whole point.

Where: Foliage inside closed canopy forest, well beyond the trail head. Best: Year round, night.

Southern Whipping Frog

Southern Whipping Frog Rare Endangered

Taruga longinasus

A lowland outlier in a mountain genus, and its scattered range is the ghost of a wet forest belt that no longer joins up.

Where: Vegetation over lowland stream pools. Best: Year round, night.

Nagao's Pug-snout Frog Very rare Endangered

Uperodon nagaoi

Its entire life cycle happens in a few hundred millilitres of rainwater trapped in a rotting trunk.

Where: Water held in rotting tree holes in the old growth forest. Best: Year round, night. Kanneliya is the type locality. The whole life cycle happens inside a hollow trunk.

Fish

6 species

Ceylon Killifish

Ceylon Killifish Regular

Aplocheilus dayi

Hangs motionless at the surface with an iridescent green spot between its eyes, which is how you find it.

Where: Ditches and marshy margins around the reserve edge. Best: Year round.

Black Ruby Barb

Black Ruby Barb Occasional

Pethia nigrofasciata

A grey fish for eleven months of the year that turns crimson and jet black to breed.

Where: Shallow gravel margins on the main forest stream. Best: May to September.

Ceylon Combtail

Ceylon Combtail Occasional

Belontia signata

A gourami that breathes air, guards a nest of bubbles and will see off a fish twice its size.

Where: Shaded stream pools along the forest trails. Best: January to March.

Cherry Barb

Cherry Barb Occasional Vulnerable

Rohanella titteya

One of the most widely kept aquarium fish on earth, and it lives wild in about a dozen shaded streams on one island.

Where: Leaf-littered pools along the forest stream trails. Best: January to March.

Fire Rasbora

Fire Rasbora Occasional Endangered

Rasboroides vaterifloris

A shoal of these in a shaft of forest light is the reason the Victorians called it the pearly rasbora.

Where: Shaded pools along the stream trails. Best: January to March.

Ornate Paradisefish

Ornate Paradisefish Rare Endangered

Malpulutta kretseri

The only species in its genus, anywhere, and it lives in shaded puddles of a stream in one corner of one island.

Where: Shallow leaf-filled pools and seepages off the main streams. Best: January to March.

Insects

8 species

Weaver Ant

Weaver Ant Common

Oecophylla smaragdina

A rust-red ant that sews living leaves into nests using its own larvae as glue guns.

Where: Nests in the canopy and low branches along the trails. Best: Year round.

Shining Gossamerwing

Shining Gossamerwing Regular

Euphaea splendens

Black wings that flash metallic blue-green as the male turns in a shaft of light over a forest stream.

Where: Sunlit rocky stretches of the forest streams. Best: January to March.

Ceylon Tree Nymph

Ceylon Tree Nymph Occasional

Idea iasonia

Drifts through the forest like a sheet of paper caught in a current, and barely seems to fly at all.

Where: Clearings and stream openings inside the reserve. Best: January to March.

Sri Lanka Birdwing

Sri Lanka Birdwing Occasional

Troides darsius

The largest butterfly on the island, the size of a small bird, and it lives nowhere else.

Where: Canopy gaps and clearings along the reserve trails. Best: January to March.

Ceylon Rose

Ceylon Rose Rare Critically Endangered

Pachliopta jophon

Critically Endangered, endemic, and confined to the shrinking rainforest of one corner of the island.

Where: Forest trails and clearings inside the reserve. Best: January to March.

Green's Gem

Green's Gem Rare

Libellago greeni

A damselfly the length of a fingernail, endemic to a handful of rainforest streams.

Where: Rocky stretches of the forest streams. Best: January to March.

Sri Lanka Blue Oakleaf

Sri Lanka Blue Oakleaf Rare

Kallima philarchus

Electric blue and orange in flight, and a dead leaf complete with midrib and fungal blotches the moment it lands.

Where: Trail edges and fallen fruit inside the reserve. Best: January to March.

No free photograph of the Sri Lanka blue oakleaf exists. The image shows the scarce blue oakleaf, Kallima knyvettii, a close relative photographed in southern India.

Sri Lanka Relict Ant

Sri Lanka Relict Ant Ultra rare Critically Endangered

Aneuretus simoni

The only surviving species of an entire subfamily of ants, and it lives in the leaf litter of one island.

Where: Forest floor litter in the least disturbed sections. Best: Year round.

Spiders and scorpions

2 species

Golden Orb-weaver

Golden Orb-weaver Common

Nephila pilipes

A giant black-and-yellow spider spinning webs of golden silk strong enough to snare small birds.

Where: Trail edges and clearings through the reserve. Best: August to December.

Fringed Ornamental Tarantula

Fringed Ornamental Tarantula Rare

Poecilotheria ornata

A tarantula the size of a dinner plate that lives in tree holes and sometimes shares them with a frog.

Where: Hollows in the large trees near the stream trails, at night. Best: January to March, night.

Molluscs

1 species

Sri Lanka Tree Snail

Sri Lanka Tree Snail Occasional

Acavus phoenix

A snail the size of a plum, banded like a boiled sweet, that lives its whole life in the canopy.

Where: Tree trunks along the stream trails after rain. Best: May to September and January to March.

Crustaceans

1 species

Sri Lanka Tree Crab

Sri Lanka Tree Crab Very rare

Perbrinckia scansor

A freshwater crab that lives up a tree, in rainwater trapped in a hollow trunk, and only comes down to breed.

Where: Rot holes and hollows in mature trees along the stream trails. Best: February and March.

Planning

January to April and July to September for the drier weather, though this is rainforest and rain is the normal condition. The main trails run to waterfalls and are straightforward; the interesting herpetology is off them and needs someone who knows the reserve. Leech socks in any month. Kanneliya is smaller and more fragmented than Sinharaja and the buffer is under real pressure from cultivation. If you want the endemic birds and one forest only, Sinharaja is the stronger choice. If you want the same forest without the guided queue, this is it.

Compare guided rainforest walks and birding days at Kanneliya

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Frequently asked questions

What wildlife can you see at Kanneliya?

Wet zone endemics: Sri Lanka blue magpie and orange-billed babbler among the birds, purple-faced langur, an endemic frog list including the golden shrub frog, endemic stream fish, the fringed ornamental tarantula, and the Sri Lanka tree crab and relict ant, both close to unfindable elsewhere.

Is Kanneliya better than Sinharaja?

Sinharaja is richer for birds and has the mixed feeding flock. Kanneliya is quieter, easier to walk and holds several species that are hard to find anywhere else. If you have time for one, take Sinharaja. If you have time for two, come here second.

When is the best time to visit Kanneliya?

January to April and July to September, the drier spells. Frogs are better on a wet night, so the two goals pull in opposite directions and most people take the dry option.

Do you need a guide at Kanneliya?

Not for the main waterfall trails. Yes, for anything on this page that is small, nocturnal or off the path, which is most of the reason to come.

Image credits

Square thumbnails are cropped from the original. Wide banner images are cropped to a band. Other images are resized only. No other changes have been made.

Square thumbnails are cropped from the original. Wide banner images are cropped to a band. Other images are resized only. No other changes have been made.